Watch Snob on Patek Philippe Watches

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Patek Philippe for most of its history has with some considerable justification been considered the most blue-blooded of all the Swiss watch manufacturers. There have to be sure been many other fine watchmakers in Switzerland, and elsewhere, that could be considered candidates for the first name in horology; these range from Patek’s fellow Swiss firms such as Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet, to some German firms as well such as of course, A. Lange & Sohne. And of course there are independent, small watchmaking concerns such as Roger Smith and Kari Voutilainen, the quality of whose work cannot be gainsaid.

However, no company has quite the combination of virtues that Patek Philippe has offered throughout its history. It has consistently created some of the most classic, the most complicated, and the most beautiful pocket watches, wristwatches, and clocks made anywhere in the world and it has done so with an orientation towards exclusivity that few if any other companies can match. As a result Patek enjoys not only an unmatched reputation but also an ability for its watches to hold their value over time, and even to increase in value – sometimes many fold, as can be seen at auction where especially desirable vintage Pateks routinely set records and can easily run into seven figures.

And yet in recent years, there have been signs of Patek’s reputation beginning to erode. There are for instance, examples of the company simply being more interested in making money than in making interesting watches. Its production of limited editions can easily seem like money grubbing – the limited edition watches for the anniversary of the Nautilus, with their gauche dials and the release of 600 steel so-called Pilot’s Calatravas last week are but two examples. They show signs of abandoning some of the most essential core elements of watchmaking in their insistence on incorporating silicon escapement components and balance springs, which ask nothing of the rare skills in adjusting traditional components that were for many decades an essential part of what Patek offers. They have over the last dozen years, raised prices to such an extent that it is no longer possible for entire professions that once were the core of their support, to consider buying a Patek Philippe watch without feeling as if they are being had. And perhaps worst of all, there are signs of corners cut in quality – finish, especially, it is whispered and sometimes said straight out, is no longer what it once was.

Patek Philippe has become one of the Frontrunners in the Development of the Trade

The name of the company, which was coined from the owners Antoni Patek and Adrien Philippe, has built a strong reputation in the industry of watchmaking. Since the brand was founded in 1868, Patek Philippe has become one of the frontrunners in the development of the trade. It helped in the innovation of the movements and designs for pocketwatches and wristwatches.

It is interesting to note that the simple mention of the brand Patek Philippe always seems to create a lasting impact on most people. This brand of luxury timepieces has long been resting at the top of the Swiss watches list, undisturbed by the stiff competition that thrives in the country of dedicated manufacturers. Through the years, Patek Philippe watches have earned the adulation of the high society, including the royalties from different parts of the world.

The milestones in the production of Patek Philippe copie watches are greatly impressive. From the royalty to the popes, the clientele of Patek Philippe remains unparalleled. The famous Queen Victoria of England had received a number of exclusive watches from the company since 1851. Soon, the brand Patek Philippe has flourished throughout the kingdoms in Europe, making it the official supplier to some political figures and even the popes.The company currently holds the world record having the most expensive pocketwatch and wristwatch ever sold at the auctions. With the kind of people that it serves and the price that it demands from the buyers, it is not surprising that Patek Philippe has become an authority in Swiss luxury watches.

Most of the men’s watches made by Patek Philippe are devised with more complications as compared to those timepieces designed for women. Perhaps the most popular line of watches under the brand is the Calatavra collection. Its trademark design is the round-shaped case with hobnail bezel. However, the additional features as well as the movements of the watches still vary from one to another; they can be automatic, manually wounded or quartz.

Vintage Omega Seamaster 120 replica watch

When talking about rarity in Omegas, everything is relative. A rare Patek will be one of perhaps 5 or 10 examples, a rare Omega one of a few hundred. A rare Omega is in the thousands – with millions of watches produced over the decades, something that was made in a run of 20 or 30 thousand pieces is relatively uncommon compared to a series of several hundred thousand. So when someone touts his or her particular watch as “rare” don’t expect it to be one of a handful that will never come up again. It’s more likely just an uncommon model that the seller didn’t happen to see on eBay at the time he put up his listing.

I know I have done a lot of reviews on vintage watches here, but you know, these vintage watches are my favorites, many blog readers also asked me a lot of other vintage brand watches that were not reviewed here, but not all of them are produced by the factory, here I recommend you two top quality ones, Daytona Paul Newman and Sea-Dweller Double Red. This one I am going to give a review is a vintage Omega Seamaster, on its dial, there are printings of “Seamaster 120”, actually I do not know the meaning of digit “120”, does it mean that the watch is water resistant to 120 metres? And I have another question, was it produced in 1968?

Whatever, it is a great replica with every detail closely replicated to genuine. The movement is the best, because it adopted a genuine Japanese automatic, which is Miyota 8215. This imported movement has a better accuracy and reliability than other clone automatic movements. This is not a large watch, which only features a 38.5mm case diameter. Black bezel is diver’s style and has white markings. Black dial is protected by plexi crystal face like genuine. The hour markers and hands are all applied with good quality luminescence that could give a long durable lume light at night.

Great Quality Swiss Replica Rolex Watches: omega Replica watches

To meet the whole vintage style, the factory uses a suede grey leahter strap for this replica, the outside face of the band gives a hairy feeling, while the inside is smooth leather. Solid case back has an unqie Seamaster logo that is different from modern logo’s appearance. These engravings on back are also very clear and neat. Because of not that large case diameter, this watch could fulfill the wrist size of most men, plus its movement with low repairing rate, the replica watch will be a good choice for every man who wants to find the vintage feel.

Rolex Submariner Vs Explorer

While the Submariner goes into the deep, the Explorer (below) was built to scale mountain peaks, following Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay’s successful ascent of Mount Everest with their Oyster Perpetual timepieces.

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Since it wasn’t made for deep-sea diving, the watch is waterproof up to 100m, unlike the Submariner’s 300m. This means you can still go swimming with it and do practically everything in your daily life with it. Just no expeditions to the Titanic wreckage, please.

MOVEMENT
Now that we’ve sorted out the basics, let’s look inside the watches. The Submariner here uses Calibre 3130 which is basically the same as the very reliable workhorse Calibre 3135, except it doesn’t have the date function. The previous Explorer also ran on Calibre 3130 but the new version here uses Calibre 3132, which includes the high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers. Both the Submariner and Explorer are certified Superlative Chronometers with a power reserve of 48 hours and feature the proprietary paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring.

When it comes to aesthetics, the basic models look similar with their stainless steel case, bracelet and black dial. However, the Submariner has a sportier feel, thanks to its uni-directional rotating bezel and slightly larger case (40mm to the Explorer’s 39mm). On the other hand, the Explorer, with its baton indexes and fixed stainless steel bezel, looks more versatile—you can take it hiking but also to a black tie gala.

Rolex Glidelock System

PRICE

Now for many of us, this is what it really comes down to, isn’t it? For a sports model, you can expect the Submariner to cost more than an Explorerbut at about $10,000 for a basic model, it may be slightly out of reach for the average executiveCheap . Nevertheless, it’s still one of the most popular Rolex models around and stocks fly off the shelves as fast as Republicans ditch Donald Trump.

On the other hand, the Explorer’s $8,770 price tag is a little more manageable for an entry-level piece. Since both the Submariner and Explorer are comparable in terms of movement, the Explorer scores on versatility, value, and the sheer fact that it’s not going to be lost in the sea of Submariners out there.

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At the end of the day, if this is your first Rolex, get the Explorer. But if you’re looking to expand your collection, a Submariner is an iconic piece you’d want to add to it.

The Three Watches every Man should own

The tool watch

Variants on the basic improvements made to wristwatches during the early part of the last century tend to be of the complex, mechanical variety, meaning anything that is dust and waterproof and comes fitted with a self-winding movement if mechanical (which it should be) could potentially be described as a “tool” watch. However, today, the term is more strictly applied to a set of aesthetic considerations driven by a desire for overall robustness – achieving along the a genuine sense of “horological heft”. Such watches may also come with one or more “tools” – or complications in watch-making parlance – but whether these are ever usefully deployed is another matter.

Dress watch

Released of its need to serve its master in a variety of guises (and quite possibly less than convivial circumstances) the dress watch is required to dazzle in the least flamboyant manner imaginable. Which means, inevitably, the Devil lies in its details, including the choice of metal used in the case and, if fitted, bracelet as well as the overall elegance of its design. It’s the latter consideration that generall denotes a quality “dress watch” and will broadly follow the history of watch design itself: round, gold, high-gloss black leather strap; square or rectangular steel or white gold on patent leather strap or matching bracelet, or some modernist trope thereof.

Beach watch

Assuming for the purposes of this article you have a functional computational device for use whilst riding, sailing, running and the like, the true “weekend timepiece” need only show a hint of horological know-how, wrapped up in an insouciant approach to watch ownership: it can be playful and even a little pretentious (a little, mind), but it shouldn’t cast a shadow over the belief that, back home, lies a veritable army of more aspirational wrist candy. In this guise, plucking something from the growing number of Scandi-inspired watches is relatively easy. Alternatively, stay true to the idea that all great designs have their day and experiment with one or other “outlier”.

Rate precision from Patek Philippe’s perspective

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One of the successful outcomes of the Patek Philippe Advanced Research project involved a significant reduction of the negative impact of the center – of – mass imbalance on the isochronism of the balance spring itself. A glance at the Spiromax ® balance spring made of Silinvar ® shows that the outer boss is now paired with an inner boss. The outer boss, also referred to as the Patek Philippe terminal curve, improves the isochronism of the balance in all positions by assuring the adequately concentric expansion and contraction of the balance spring. It compensates the disruption of isochronism caused by the escapement and the rotation of the balance regardless of the amplitude. Conversely, the inner boss offsets positional changes of the center of gravity to assure the highest possible rate accuracy in vertical orientations. For the owner, this means that the watch will not run slower or faster regardless of its orientation. The production of hairsprings with the DRIE process guarantees a perfect reproduced geometry, including the positional changes of its center of gravity. Because silicon cannot be deformed, its properties are not affected even when the watch is worn daily. The precisely defined geometry of the inner boss causes a controllable position change of the center of gravity while the spring contracts and expands. This significantly reduces or even eliminates the center – of – mass imbalance of the hairspring during each semi – oscillation. The result is a degree of rate accuracy that exceeds nearly all standards for mechanical watches regardless of their orientation.

Rate precision from Patek Philippe’s perspective

The Patek Philippe Seal imposes very stringent requirements on all of the manufacture’s mechanical watches. The mean rate of movements with a diameter of more than 20 mm must range within – 3 to +2 seconds per day. For Patek Philippe tourbillon timepieces, the tolerance is a strict 3 seconds per 24 hours. Hundreds of repetitive measurements performed by Patek Philippe’s certification laboratories have shown that a mechanical Patek Philippe movement with a Spiromax ® balance spring that has both an outer and an inner boss can be adjusted to a mean rate of – 1 to +2 seconds per 24 hours, which matches the rate accuracy of a Patek Philippe movement with a tourbillon.

Trailblazing technologies for a promising future

The new Spiromax ® balance spring with an inner and outer boss reconfirms the extraordinary benefits of Silinvar ® , the silicon derivative that Patek Philippe launched in 2005 as a world debut. Machining it with the DRIE process allows the geometry of the hairspring to be al tered at any location to systematically influence its oscillation behavior and thus its isochronism. This is an ambitious goal because a precise and dependable rate is an important prerequisite for assuring the successful future of the proud tradition of mechanical timekeeping. For this reason, Patek Philippe’s objective is to gradually integrate the balance spring with this geometry in its current production schedule. But Patek Philippe Advanced Research also extends to other fields as illustrated by the n ext innovation within the framework of this presentation.

Vintage Omega Seamaster 120 replica watch

When talking about rarity in Omegas, everything is relative. A rare Patek will be one of perhaps 5 or 10 examples, a rare Rolex one of a few hundred. A rare Omega is in the thousands – with millions of watches produced over the decades, something that was made in a run of 20 or 30 thousand pieces is relatively uncommon compared to a series of several hundred thousand. So when someone touts his or her particular watch as “rare” don’t expect it to be one of a handful that will never come up again. It’s more likely just an uncommon model that the seller didn’t happen to see on eBay at the time he put up his listing.

I know I have done a lot of reviews on vintage watches here, but you know, these vintage watches are my favorites, many blog readers also asked me a lot of other vintage brand watches that were not reviewed here, but not all of them are produced by the factory, here I recommend you two top quality ones, Daytona Paul Newman and Sea-Dweller Double Red. This one I am going to give a review is a vintage Omega Seamaster, on its dial, there are printings of “Seamaster 120”, actually I do not know the meaning of digit “120”, does it mean that the watch is water resistant to 120 metres? And I have another question, was it produced in 1968?

Whatever, it is a great replica with every detail closely replicated to genuine. The movement is the best, because it adopted a genuine Japanese automatic, which is Miyota 8215. This imported movement has a better accuracy and reliability than other clone automatic movements. This is not a large watch, which only features a 38.5mm case diameter. Black bezel is diver’s style and has white markings. Black dial is protected by plexi crystal face like genuine. The hour markers and hands are all applied with good quality luminescence that could give a long durable lume light at night.

To meet the whole vintage style, the factory uses a suede grey leahter strap for this replica, the outside face of the band gives a hairy feeling, while the inside is smooth leather. Solid case back has an unqie Seamaster logo that is different from modern logo’s appearance. These engravings on back are also very clear and neat. Because of not that large case diameter, this watch could fulfill the wrist size of most men, plus its movement with low repairing rate, the replica watch will be a good choice for every man who wants to find the vintage feel.

How did mechanical-watch king Rolex deal with the arrival of quartz in the 1970s?

Rolex made just 4,000 Oysterquartz watches per year.

How did mechanical-watch king Rolex deal with the arrival of quartz in the 1970s? What follows is an excerpt from the book “Electrifying the Wristwatch,” by WatchTime contributor Lucien Trueb. The book, illustrated with photos of pieces from watch collectors Günther Ramm and Peter Wenzig, tells how quartz-watch technology evolved.André Heiniger, second Rolex president and successor of the founder Hans Wilsdorf, was a true visionary. His opinion was that the originally very costly quartz watch would soon be totally banal. This already had happened with transistor radios, TV sets, and pocket calculators.

Top-quality mechanical movements would always remain expensive and exclusive due to the large amount of highly qualified labor that is required for manufacturing the parts and assembling them. The inescapable fact that a mechanical device can only tell time approximately could be easily hidden by writing “Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified” on the dial. This means a daily rate of plus-six/minus-four seconds per day. In due time, every watch brand in the “upscale” sector copied Heiniger’s concept. Wealthy people don’t need an instrument that tells time: they want a beautiful and exclusive object on their wrist.

Rolex developed several technically advanced quartz movements that never got beyond the prototype stage. The most interesting of them certainly was a thermo-compensated quartz caliber that was developed in 1985. Design studies were made with extremely stable high frequency (1.2 MHz and 2.4 MHz) quartz resonators with the ZT cut. The CEH produced those resonators and delivered 1,000 pieces in 1984. In 1986, Rolex built 50 prototypes but there was no production, even though the yearly rate was just a few seconds. Another very ingenious quartz caliber with a perpetual calendar had the same fate. It was set in a particularly easy way; it also featured a 2.4 MHz quartz resonator with ZT cut as well as a standard 32 kHz resonator. As the ZT quartz and its divider circuit needed a lot of power, it was only switched on every 10 minutes for 10 seconds in order to set the 32 kHz frequency. An extraordinary rate and a battery life of 10 years were achieved with a three-volt lithium battery that measured 22.0 mm by 2.5 mm. The 30-mm caliber featured three motors for the seconds, the minutes and hour, and the day/date function, respectively. This design was patented; the patent became public domain in 2011. A test series of 400 pieces was assembled, but there was no production; none of those prototypes ever left the Rolex premises.

Rolex GMT Master II

The Rolex GMT timepieces are definitely the professional group of wrist watches. It was built in the year of The late 90s towards the Basel Fair. Rolex is usually a name which is pertaining to setting masculine fashion models. Rolex GMT Master II is among the most most deluxe watches in the earth. Unique features of GMT comprises as follows :- Standard case magnitude of 40mm- Self-winding machine- Turning bezel- Ceramic Bezels- An anti-scratch synthetic sapphire gem that has a slim appearance.- Triple lock system presenting another coating of shield to the Oyster case. It offers a superior a triple gasket system which screws down solidly over the case tube and then to the Oyster case.- For sale in 18 karat yellow gold, steel and Rolex. Apart from above capabilities, the choice of black bezel together with black dial is also most stylish in such model. The aesthetic developments which Rolex has brought in the wrist watches with the well stylish machinery have saved the business from the idea of fake replica swiss wrist watches. This business has got security measures engraved included in the watches which include SKU numbers. The bi-directional rotating bezel in the Rolex GMT designer watches allows the individual to observe the time into 2 special timezones concurrently.

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The Rolex GMT was designed as an aviator watch: The newly introduced fourth hand allowed the display of an additional time, with the corresponding numbermarkings on the outer bezel. Pilots used the second time to display the Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), which led to the name Rolex GMT Master. Altough Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) got replaced 1972 in the Aviation Industry by Coordinated Universal Time , the term GMT is still known and kept as part of the name of the GMT Master, altough Pilots nowadays use it to set UTC.

THE NEW ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL AIR-KING WITH BLACK DIAL

The Rolex Air-King, for most of its very long history, was the simplest, least expensive Rolex, but also in some ways the purist’s Rolex. With no date, a 100 m water resistant case, screw-down crown, and chronometer certification, it had every essential attribute that makes a Rolex , with no distractions. In 2014, however, it was discontinued, and its status as the entry level Rolex as well as the purist’s Rolex was taken in 2015 by a new version of the Oyster Perpetual. In 2016, however, the Air-King returned and it is emphatically not your father’s Air-King. With a 40 mm case, new “Superlative Chronometer” certification, complete overhaul to the dial, and the same arrangements for resistance to magnetism as the Milgauss, it may be an Air-King in name, but in the hand and on the wrist, it’s an almost entirely new watch.

The Black dial rolex oyster perpetual air king replica watch ref. 116900 features a dial very similar to that on the Rolex Explorer I ref. 214270 we reviewed here; but this time, including a white minute scale with white numerals. The new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King ref. 116900 features a black glossy dial with applied hour numerals at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock.

The new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King ref. 116900 is fitted with the legendary Oyster bracelet with satin-brushed finish. The bracelet features solid links throughout and is fitted with a folding Oysterclasp equipped with the Easylink system that allows the wearer to extend the last link on the bracelet by 5 mm.

The watch is waterproof to 100 meters and its movement is properly protected by its Twinlock screw-down crown and its screwed-in solid case back. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal with Rolex’s etched coronet at 6 o’clock. Perhaps the biggest difference of this clasp versus all other modern clasps on Rolex Sports models, is that the Rolex coronet —crown— is this time embossed on bas-relief —low-relief— opposed to being applied and soldered to the clasp.

In fact, it’s such a departure from what we’ve all gotten used to thinking of as an Air-King that I almost wish Rolex had named it something else. The retention of the Air-King name means that you have to struggle a little when you first see pictures of the watch – or when you start wearing it – to see it as its own thing, instead of through the veil of years of exposure to something else that had the same name. What is the same, however – Rolex being pretty good at not totally disrupting the connection of any of its watches to earlier models in particular, and to the basic design codes of the company in particular – is the Air-King logo, as if to reassure the skittish that underneath it all, the Air-King is the same purist’s watch you knew and loved once upon a time.